An electric cooking zone remains at full heat regardless of the selected setting. Because cooktops combine high heat with high-current electrical parts—and some models also involve gas—the appliance type must be identified before service.
Common causes
- An infinite switch has failed in the closed or high-output state
- A power relay or electronic control is stuck on
- A temperature sensor or limiter is not reporting correctly
- Wiring or a connector is shorted across the control circuit
How the problem is diagnosed
The zone is isolated and the switch or electronic output is tested at multiple settings. A technician checks the sensor or limiter, wiring, and element circuit so a stuck control is not confused with normal cycling or retained heat.
This is an electric cooktop fault. The diagnosis and an upfront estimate are explained before approved work begins.
Information to prepare
Note which zone is affected, whether it cycles at all, and whether the hot-surface indicator behaves normally after power is removed. Keep the model and serial number available; they are often printed on the underside or in the installation documentation.
Repair or replace?
The decision depends on the failed control or element, parts availability, glass condition, installation access, and appliance age. A serviceable switch or cooking zone may justify repair, while cracked glass, unavailable electronic modules, or multiple heat-damaged components can make replacement more practical.
